As I went to the bank to wire money for this trip, the teller seemed confused, approached her colleague and seemed to not have gotten some answers, and finally got the nerve to ask me, “Is this a country? Where is it?” That’s when I realized apparently Bhutan is not a popular country. I was surprised as it has been in my bucket list for so long.
Bhutan is a small country in the Himalayas between China and India. One of the reasons of its ‘unpopularity’ is it holds a strict visiting policy by implementing locally guided tours with high fee (as compared to other Asian countries). So this made it my second guided trip, next to India.
“High value, low impact”
This tourism policy of Bhutan makes it the last Asian country where you can experience its authentic culture. Being one of the fortunate people to visit this country, it’s a priviledge to share my experience to you. Enjoy reading!
Regardless of where you’re coming from, flights to Paro International Airport only come from Kathmandu, Delhi, Bodh Gaya, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bagdogra, Guwahati, Dhaka, Bangkok and Singapore. In our case, we flew from Singapore which took about 4 hours.
Day 1: Paro – Thimphu
As we exited Paro International Airport, our smiling guide and driver offered us with white scarves as a graceful manner of welcoming us.
Strategically, a good introduction of this country was done at the National Museum of Bhutan.
After being oriented, we head over to Paro Dzong or Rinpung Dzong. A dzong is a fortress surrounded by a complex of courtyard, temple, and administrative offices. As you will be visiting a lot of dzongs and temples, always wear proper dress code (covered arms and legs).
Following lunch, we drove to Thimpu which was about 1.5 hour. If you can help not to fall asleep (we did), please do so as the route is scenic. I realised it when we went back to Paro.
Tired when we reached Thimphu, we decided to call it a day. Wangchuck, our guide, understood and allowed us to take a rest.
Overnight: Thimphu
Day 2: Thimphu
Energised we were ready to explore Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan! This day’s itinerary was full packed as we had to squeeze in the things we missed from the previous day.
First on the itinerary was a 1-hour hike at Kuenselphodrang Nature Park. We passed by prayer flags at different sites. The mantra is that the message written on these flags will be blown by the wind to spread good will. These can also be seen in other parts of Bhutan.
After the hike, we went to Buddha Point where Buddha Dordenma is found sitting. It is said to be the largest sitting Buddha in the world. Inside the temple is beautiful, but photography is not allowed.
Next, we walked around the Memorial Chorten. Chorten or stupa is a spiritual monument. It is noticeable that most of the worshippers are elderlies. They are devout Buddhists and they pray throughout the day. Do note to walk clockwise around prayer wheels, stupas and temples.
Afterwards we went to one of Thimphu’s oldest temples, Changangkha Lhakhang. Lhakhang means temple.
It was time to have some lunch to fuel up at Simply Bhutan. We were first welcomed with Ara, a traditional alcoholic beverage in Bhutan. Simply Bhutan is a living museum. So after a taste, Bhutan tradition was showcased to us. The finale was a traditional dance show while we enjoyed Bhutanese cuisine.
In this museum we had the chance to see up close Mr. Prema Tshering, whose work of art is exemplary by using his foot. He was once featured in CNN.
Bhutan’s national animal is Takin. We visited the Royal Takin Preserve to see one. I was in awe. Its head looks like a goat and its body like a cow.
Next, we wandered through the neat dry Thimphu Market.
As we continued our walk, we were able to watch some locals practicing archery.
It was still early for the next itinerary. So we requested to hang out in a cafe. Bhutan may be the land of devout Buddhism with its natural beauty, but it has also accepted modernity.
The tour ended in Thimphu Dzong or Tashichho Dzong. It is the central administrative center of Bhutan. In short, it’s where the office of the Dragon King is, which is open for visitors after 5 pm Monday to Friday.
It’s been a busy, but wonderful day. We decided to skip the hotel food so we went out to eat. I was glad we did it because we had the chance to walk around just us.
Overnight: Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu – Gangtey & Phobjika
Dochula Pass is a mountain pass (3,150 meters or 10,330 feet) on the road between Thimphu and Punakha. We stopped for a coffee break. Attractions found here are the 108 Chortens, the Druk Wangyel Lhakhang and Royal Botanical Trail. On a clear weather, you may appreciate the grand view of snowcapped Himalayas. It was a foggy morning that time, hence our supposed second hike was cancelled.
As we continued our drive, we saw a falls. Wangchuck was accommodating and we paused to snap a few shots.
In Gangtey, we walked through a village and visited a monastery that was undergoing refurbishing at that time.
To keep our adrenaline going, we hiked the Gangtey Nature Trail. It was supposed to be a 1.5-hour leisurely hike turned into excessively muddy hike. As we walked through the pine trees, we unconsciously stepped out of the trail when we saw the beautiful valley until we realised there’s no way of going back. Wangchuck, our hero, eventually got us back to the end of the trail. It was a fun experience and a memorable one.
The day ended at a local farm house where we met such kind Bhutanese family who prepared us dinner. People of Bhutan have opened up their farms to guests who wish to experience their way of living. This is an epic experience.
Overnight: Gangtey
Day 4: Gangtey – Punakha
Another unique experience was seeing a black-necked crane. Cranes date as far back as 40 to 60 million years during the age of the dinosaurs. From these, only 15 species survived including the black necked cranes.
We then drove to Punakha, which was once the capital of Bhutan. We got a quick look of the Lobesa Market before heading to the restaurant overlooking rice fields.
Punakha is popular for seeing ‘phallus’ everywhere as the temple that was built by the Divine Madman is located near here. Also known as Drukpa Kunley, his teaching of Buddhism was unorthodox. The monastery he built is visited by couples from other parts of the world desiring to have a child. Because of this he is also called the fertility saint. From the restaurant as our starting point, it’s a 25-minute walk to the Fertility Temple.
This day we conquered our fear of heights by crossing Bhutan’s longest iron suspension bridge. It stretches more than 300 meters across the Pho Chhu River.
Our last stop was the Punakha Dzong. This is my favourite. For me, it’s the most beautiful dzong that we have visited.
Overnight: Punakha
Day 5: Punakha – Paro
There was a heavy rain the previous night, so our hike to Khamsum Yulley Namgyel Chorten was cancelled (again). Of course there weren’t any hurt feelings. Expect changes in the schedule of activities during a bad weather.
After breakfast, we visited a Nunnery.
The nunnery is perched high up on top of a hill. I don’t know if it’s a common knowledge, but the nuns apparently looked like monks.
As we drove back to Paro, we passed by the Dochula Pass hoping for a good visibility.
Thankfully, we were able to walk around the 108 chortens. They serve as memorial to the Bhutanese soldiers killed in an uprising in 2003.
In Paro, we strolled at the Simtokha Dzong, the first ever dzong built in 1629.
As our vacation has nearly come to an end, we dropped by at some shops for souvenir shopping.
Overnight: Paro
Day 6: Paro
Finally, it’s time to hike to Taktsang Monastery, the highlight of this trip. It’s a temple hanging on a rocky cliff.
With enough energy left, we were taught archery.
Finally as a reward to all the walking we made, we enjoyed a traditional massage and hot stone bath compliments of Bhutan Swallowtail Tours and Travels.
Overnight: Paro
Day 7: Flight back to Singapore
FAQs
Travel agency: Bhutan Swallowtail Tours and Travels
Inclusion: all transportation (flight and private car), visa processing, tour guide, driver, hotel, meals, and all service charges and taxes
When we went: August (Monsoon season)
Duration: 6 nights/6 days (7th day is departure)
What you should know before going:
- Bhutanese people are generally vegetarian and Bhutanese cuisine is mostly spicy.
- Remove shoes when entering a holy place.
- Avoid taking photos once inside a temple.
Currency: Bhutanese Ngutrum; Indian Rupee is accepted
You may also exchange currency at a local bank.
Connection: We bought a local sim at the arrival hall of Paro International Airport.
Coming from the Philippines, it was not hard to adjust to fluctuating and weak signals.
Summary of expenses in USD per person:
- Land tour – 1,420
- Airfare – 951
- Bank wire transfer charge – 40
- Total – 2,411
With love,
Sugar
